Rolex replica submariner: story of an icon
What makes watches special is their ability to pass from generation to generation. They tell us stories of successes, families and people: stories that are often as important as the technical skill needed to make the timepieces themselves. In the vast watchmaking sector, some models become true icons. In this series of articles we will focus on the most important ones, starting with the most prominent one: the Rolex Submariner replica.
The Rolex Submariner is probably the most renowned luxury watch in the world. A member of the Rolex sports watch family, this model has enjoyed great success since its introduction in the 1950s. There are several factors that have contributed to its popularity. First of all, over the last 60 years the watch has proven itself to be a truly high-quality diving watch. Secondly, the brand has adopted a very effective marketing strategy to attract the attention of the general public: the Rolex Submariner appears in many James Bond films. The last factor, and perhaps the most important, is that the Submariner can also be a dress watch, thanks to its elegant and timeless design. The Submariner is much more than a watch: it is a symbol of luxury and prestige.
The beginnings
As with many other classic iconic watches, it all began with a practical question. The history of the Rolex Submariner began in the early 1950s, when Rene P. Jeanneret, director of Rolex and amateur diver, challenged the company to create a diving watch that could also be worn on a daily basis as an elegant model. By 1953 the answer to Jeanneret's challenge was ready to be tested. In the same year, Auguste Piccard and his son Jacques attempted to set a world diving record. The two managed to reach the astonishing record depth of 3,131.8 meters (10,275 feet) with their bathyscaphe. A Rolex made specifically for this adventure was fixed to the outside of the bathyscaphe. When they resurfaced, the watch was still working perfectly: a legend was born.
Presentation to the public
At the 1954 Basel Watch Fair, Rolex presented two Submariner models to the public. These two watches, the references 6204 and 6205, were the first examples to withstand a depth of 100 meters (328 feet). A year later, a third version was introduced with the reference number 6200, considered by many to be the “Holy Grail of Rolexes”. Although this model was released after the reference 6204, its reference number and outdated movement suggest that it was produced earlier.
The reference 6200 is slightly bulkier, has a thicker case, is water resistant to 200 m (656 ft), and features a larger crown than those of the other two reference numbers. Another difference is the Explorer-style “3-6-9” dial layout. What the first three models had in common was the absence of the word “Submariner” on the dial, which appeared for the first time at the end of 1954, as well as the lack of crown protection shoulders. It is said that Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, believed the public was not yet ready for the thicker reference 6200 and that is why he decided to present the thinner 6204 and 6205 first.
The improvement of the Submariner
In the years after the debut of the Submariner, Rolex continued to work on this model, launching some modified versions. One of the most significant changes occurred in 1955, with the presentation of the chronometer-certified Rolex caliber 1030, contained in the references 6538 and 6536. This revolutionary movement proved to be more efficient than its predecessors. In the film Agent 007: License to Kill James Bond wears a 6538, an appearance on the big screen that allowed this model to achieve the iconic status it still enjoys.
The first and most important design change was introduced with the launch of the reference numbers 5512 and 5513. Both were produced for an extended period of time, even by Rolex standards. The Genevan brand manufactured the 5512 from 1958 to 1978, while the 5513 was launched in 1962 and produced until 1989. Their designs featured some significant changes: the case size had been increased from 36 to 40 mm, there were crown protection and the words “Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified” appeared on the dial. Rolex also continued to improve its movements. The 1520 and 1530 calibers proved to be a step forward from their predecessors.
The introduction of the Cyclops lens
In 1966 Rolex added another iconic feature to the Submariner. In that year the brand presented the reference 1680, the first Submariner to have a date display and Plexiglas glass with the famous Cyclops lens for magnifying the date. Although up for debate, there is no doubt that the Cyclops lens has become a signature feature of many Submariners. The 1680 was powered by Rolex's new and improved caliber 1575, which featured a red inscription on the dial until 1973. Since then, models with this pop of color have become legendary and highly coveted by collectors.
From steel to gold
Until 1969, the Rolex Submariner was only available in steel. At that time the watch had already become a very popular icon, a success that led Rolex to present the first gold version of the Submariner. A few years earlier, the brand had already thought about launching a 1680 white gold variant and had even created the prototype of this watch. However, this version never reached mass production and the brand decided to switch to a yellow gold variant with a blue dial and bezel. Presented in 1969, the reference 16618 added another dimension to the Submariner series and marked the introduction of true luxury, with the use of precious metals. It was also the first Submariner to have a different colored dial and bezel.
Modern times, modern materials
In the late 1970s Rolex decided to make significant changes to its popular Submariner and improve its performance, which was already impressive. In 1979, the Geneva brand introduced the reference 16800, which featured a sapphire crystal and water resistance to 300 meters (984 feet). In 1981 Rolex further improved the reference 16800 and the new 16618: both were equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel and Rolex's caliber 3085. The 1980s also saw the debut of the Submariner in Rolesor (ref. 16613) in 1983. Rolesor is the name used by the brand for the two-tone models in gold and steel. Five years later, the reference 16610 was launched, powered by the new caliber 3135. Each improvement is not only a testament to Rolex's innovative nature, but also a perfect demonstration of how it is possible to reinvent a classic without completely changing its aesthetics.
50 years of the Rolex Submariner
It took until 2003 for Rolex to present a new version of the Submariner. For the 50th anniversary of the collection, the brand has decided to launch a steel variant of the reference 16610, this time with a green bezel. Many thought it was a special anniversary model, but in reality Rolex made the reference 16610LV for normal production without limited or numbered editions. Essentially, it added a new color to the Submariner family and achieved great success.
The current Submariner
The modern version of the Submariner Date made its debut in 2009. Rolex equipped it with a ceramic bezel, thick case lugs and a new bracelet. Initially the brand had introduced these features only in the Rolesor variant (ref. 116613LB). This model was soon followed by the white gold version with blue dial and bezel (ref. 116619) and the green and black steel versions (ref. 116610LN/LV) launched in 2010. In 2012 Rolex began equipping the Submariner No Date of the same three features: ceramic bezel, thick case lugs and bracelet.
And so we arrive at the present day. Over the decades, Rolex has made only minor changes to the design of the classic Submariner. This is probably a bigger success than any other technical improvement and is what made the Submariner the iconic watch we all know. Regardless of generation, a Submariner remains a Submariner. And this is precisely the secret to the success of this model: the combination of coherent design and technical developments make it a watch known by all and desired by many.
Born as an elegant diving watch suitable for everyday use, the Rolex Submariner has become an international icon in the world of luxury watches. You can wear it on almost any occasion: from diving on holiday to an elegant evening. The only thing to do is choose the preferred version and save the necessary amount. You will come into possession of an unparalleled piece of watchmaking history.